60Patrol

I recently purchased this beauty from a friend. He intended to restore it himself but got sidetracked with another project thus he offered it to me. I love a good project thus i couldnt say no. I have restored several vintage motorcycles including motor rebuilds but I have never restored a truck so this project is going to be a big learning experience for me but i think I'm up for the challenge.

The truck ran when I got it and I was able to drive it 20 miles from my friends shop to my house but it smoked very badly. I suspect it either has a stuck rig or more likely, a blown head gasket (the engine shows evidence of oil leaking from the headgasket area). Either way, I have opted to rebuild the engine. My plan is to have the motor disassembled by a professional rebuild shop. The rebuild shop will then determine what machine work needs to be done and take care of this portion of the process. Fortunately, my friend who sold me the vehicle is a professional mechanic and has offered to help me reassemble to motor after the machine work has been done.

I have a few weeks off from work so I have jumped into project full steam ahead. So far I have removed the radiator, grill assembly, disconnected the shift lever, transfer case levers, hand brake lever, exhaust pipe from the manifold, front engine mounts and the drive shaft from the front of the transfer case. The bolts connecting the front drive shaft to the transfer case were completely seized and failed to loosen with ample penetrating oil and copious heat thus I opt the cut them off with a grinder with a cutting wheel. This was relatively easy and I dont anticipate any issues reassembling with new bolts.

This bring my to my next challenge: disconnecting the driveshaft from the rear of the transfer case. Of course, these bolts are also completely seized as well. However, unlike the front shaft, access to the 4 mounting bolts is nearly impossible because of the hand brake drum. Thus I am now scratching my head as to how to proceed. My only option appears to be to disconnect the drive shaft at the rear differential and remove the rear drive shaft with transfer case when I remove the whole assembly. Does this seem correct? If I go this route, my hope is to remove the drive shaft from the rear of the transfer case once the whole assembly is out of the vehicle and I have better access to the various mounting bolts.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to how best to finish up disconnecting the drive shaft so I can remove the motor/trans/transfer case assembly?

Lastly, regarding disconnecting the rear engine mounting bolts, Should I disconnect the 2 large bolts that connect the rear engine mounting plates to the frame or should I remove the 4 bolts that affix the engine support plates to the engine? I have include a snap shot of the parts diagram of the engine mounting for reference.

Welcome!

The drive shaft can be removed... I've done it! But honestly, I cannot remember any details of it. When you get to the engine rebuild, make sure to read through all the rebuilding threads so you can share the info with your machine shop (like which way the cam bearings must go in -- I learned the hard way!).

You're in the right place!

Good luck!

John

Never heard of anyone ever having to cut off the drive shaft bolts. Yeah, they're tight but with enough yanking they eventually submit. Make sure the trans is in gear and the wheels are blocked, get under there and do some pull ups and a breaker bar and they'll come loose.

You just need to remove the single large bolts on the engine mounts.

poinrobe wrote:...

Does anyone have any suggestions as to how best to finish up disconnecting the drive shaft so I can remove the motor/trans/transfer case assembly?

From what I recall, you must use an offset wrench on the head of the bolts behind the drum for the emergency brake. It's tight as you now know. Might even have to ground a little bit the offset wrench depending on what you have.

Good luck and let us know.

Thanks for the suggestion to use an offset wrench to remove the Hand brake drum. For now i have disconnected the rear drive shaft at the Diff. I plan to tackle the other end when the motor and trans are out of the vehicle. After a few more hours of fiddling this am, I think I am ready to start the engine removal. As far as how to lift the engine, I know there is a hoist point on the left side of the front of the engine just below the valve cover, however, there is no similar site on the rear of the engine. I have removed the coolant pipe fitting at the upper right rear of the engine and have fabricated a steal bar with 2 large holes to lift the engine with. Is this correct? my only concern is using the coolant pipe fitting to attach the steel bar to the frame as I do not want to bend or brake it. Any thoughts?

poinrobe wrote:... As far as how to lift the engine, I know there is a hoist point on the left side of the front of the engine just below the valve cover, however, there is no similar site on the rear of the engine. I have removed the coolant pipe fitting at the upper right rear of the engine and have fabricated a steal bar with 2 large holes to lift the engine with. Is this correct? my only concern is using the coolant pipe fitting to attach the steel bar to the frame as I do not want to bend or brake it. Any thoughts?

I've been trying to find a picture that actually shows the bracket that goes where the coolant pipe fitting is located. Mine didn't come with a cabin heater, so only a plug was at that hole, and the plug was also keeping the hoist bracket in place.

Please go to the following thread, 1967 Family Patrol Project from member faux40. Has numerous pictures, and you'll get the idea:

https://www.60patrol.com/forum/viewtopi ... &start=270

Go near the end, and there are a couple of shots with the bracket I mention. Couldn't find a close-up.

By the way, trying to find a picture I was going through the pages of this whole thread, and it is one of the best. Lots of info and great pictures. A fun project the way he did it.

Esteban wrote:

poinrobe wrote:...
Go near the end, and there are a couple of shots with the bracket I mention. Couldn't find a close-up.

By the way, trying to find a picture I was going through the pages of this whole thread, and it is one of the best. Lots of info and great pictures. A fun project the way he did it.

Esteban- Thanks again for the info. Also thanks for the suggestion to check out the "1967 Family patrol project". What an awesome and informative thread. Not to mention the drama! I am 1/2 way through and cant stop reading!

faux40 wrote:Welcome!

The drive shaft can be removed... I've done it! But honestly, I cannot remember any details of it. When you get to the engine rebuild, make sure to read through all the rebuilding threads so you can share the info with your machine shop (like which way the cam bearings must go in -- I learned the hard way!).

You're in the right place!

Good luck!

John

John- Thanks for the words of encouragement. I am reading about your "cam bearing saga" .... OMG! the drama! Congrats on your perseverance. You are an inspiration!

Esteban wrote:

poinrobe wrote:...

Does anyone have any suggestions as to how best to finish up disconnecting the drive shaft so I can remove the motor/trans/transfer case assembly?

From what I recall, you must use an offset wrench on the head of the bolts behind the drum for the emergency brake. It's tight as you now know. Might even have to ground a little bit the offset wrench depending on what you have.

Good luck and let us know.

Agree- use an offset-neck 5/8 box end wrench on the bolt heads behind the hand brake drum, and an 11/16 wrench on the nuts. rotate the driveshaft so that the bolt you are working on is always in either the 4:00 or 8:00 position.

I was just putting the hand brake and rear driveshaft back together on my own 66 project, a few days ago

So things are progressing albeit it a bit slowly. Despite working solo, I succeeded in pulling the engine yesterday. It went alot slower than I anticipated but I tried to make every effort not to damage anything during the process. Hopefully i succeeded. I then turned my attention to the handbrake assembly. After removing 55+ years of dirt and grease from the various bolts, it cam off without to much difficulty.

Using the suggested offset wrench, i was then able to remove the driveshaft from the handbrake drum without any issues. Thanks again for the suggestion!

Now I am in the process of stripping the engine of various assemblies ( water pump, manifolds, fuel pump etc).