Another thought on Patrol Brakes.

npca-gary · Post by **npca-gary** » Sun Nov 05, 2000 12:36 pm

Trigger and I have been looking for a cost effective way to get better braking for our Patrols. We're both looking for a source for a Bendix Hydrovac that doesn't cost more then the car. Several older cars and a lot of modern trucks use the thing. I had an idea that my or may not have some worth. Replace the old master cylinder with a newer dual master cylinder. One half would go to the front brakes and the other half to the rear. The plus side, each axel would be independent of the other and all pressure would go to that axle. The negative side, this may require twice the pedal pressure which is hig enough already.. Any thought out ther ????

npca-aussie · Post by **npca-aussie** » Tue Nov 07, 2000 11:01 pm

I think your on the right track Gary. Back in Australia my Dad converted his 1970 G60 single cylinder no booster system to a vac assist dual cylinder set up off a later model. Seeing as we don't have that luxury over here maybe a dual cylinder and vac booster of a 40 or 55 series Landcruiser may work. You may need to modify the inner fender panel to fit the booster and get a propotioning valve as well as source vacume from the intake manifold but it should all work.There is also plugs you can buy if you rip off a brake line to cap it off and you would still at least have either front or rear brakes to get you home. Let us know if anyone tries this set up. Darren

npca-dave · Post by **npca-dave** » Mon Nov 13, 2000 7:19 pm

I currently have front disc brakes on my 66 patrol, it took heaps of trial and error. The rotors, calipers and master are for a FJ60, the booster had to be removed though because the steering shaft is in the way! Also, the front rotors for most vehicles are rear mount (meaning they mount to the rear of the hub) the patrol system makes this impossible. First I had to find rotors that would fit over the hub, match the bolt pattern, fit inside my rims and allow for space for the caliper. All this without intefering with steering. With the rims on my patrol I had to have a .75" spacer made so the caliper would not rub. This meant that the lug bolts had to be replaced, if anyone out there has replaced any of their lugs you will have noticed that they are pretty damn custom. I hd a adapter plate fabricated that bolts where the existing backing plate mounts that the caliper is mounted to. With the change in master cylinder, I separated the front brake lines from the rear and now my Patrol stops! I still need to do some tweaking but hey, it WORKS! If any one else wants to go through this ordeal let me know, I have all the specs and even the CNC program( for making they bracket). It would probably have been easier to keep the OE drums.Davejahdavebob@hotmail.com

npca-j. mattison · Post by **npca-j. mattison** » Mon Nov 13, 2000 11:14 pm

Well I have to admit. Front disk brakes woudl be about as cool as it woudl get. I mean when I think about the crappiest part of my part I think that it is definately the brakes. I just finishedd a total recondition of all my brakes. Wheel Cylinders and shoes and the wole nine yards. Thanks to allot of you, Jim Morrow, Dave, and Alex, I got the info and help that needed. It cost around 400 bucks. The only thing that is not are the rubber hoses on that go from the body to the differentials. If anybody has that part number let me know. I would like to replace them too. Now that it is al done. It doesn't stop like a mercedes but, it is Ok. Anyway, I would like to see this site have some articles that include pics of the such projects that we take on. If someone could fix the site for that functionality I woudl be glad to add some content. I promise to even spell check. None the less You guys hang in there. Jack

npca-jeepy · Post by **npca-jeepy** » Wed Nov 15, 2000 3:44 pm

I am currently working on putting a master cylinderin from a 1977 Subaru Wagon. It has the bolt holesplaced vertically just like the Patrols. It onlyneeds the use of a spacer. It may be possible to put a power booster on it, but I am holding off on that until I get this part done. Since the Subarudesigners were ingenious enough to tie the brakestogether from corner to corner rather than the fronts and the backs the master cylinder should needno valve to re-proportion for the 4 wheel drums. Iplan on having it set up so that the fronts and rearsare independent from one another to avoid losing brakes all together in the rare case that an axlebreaks loose or a wheel cyliner pops out ( I have had all this happen too many times already...).This will allow for PARTIAL brakes if this happenswhich is more than can be said for with the currentset-up. The early 1980's Subaru brake switch alsoworks great on the Patrol's where the old switch isout. It requires no drilling. The switch sits abovethe pedal in the cab and is mechanical/electric ratherthan hydraulic/elctric. Much more reliable. It justso happens that it fits right into the hole that hasthe bumpstop for the brake pedal. It then acts as thebumpstop as well as the switch. Just run the wire from the original switch through the fire will and there you have it...Let me know if you need any details. I will fill people in on my changes as they occur...-Jeffjeepcj_6@yahoo.co

npca-sean71 · Post by **npca-sean71** » Tue May 08, 2001 2:36 pm

The master cylinder on a VW bus looks very similar to that of a patrol. The 67 model year was a dual circut master cylinder as well, but i can't remember if the mounting bolts are vertical or horizontal...

npca-gary · Post by **npca-gary** » Sat May 12, 2001 12:50 pm

To have disc brakes would be heaven but the the modifications required sound like hell. After looking into the Junk yard, part house and 4x4 world and finding nothing, I was looking into a Hot-Rod wish book and found the cheaper solution. Their problems are the same as ours. No room and lousy brakes ( to much horse power). Two companies offer remote Power Brake boosters at reasonable prices. These units can be mounted where ever you can find space. Run a line from your master cylinder to the remote. Reattach the line that was coming from your master cylinder over to the Remote unit. Now run a vaccum line to the Remote unit and your done. Call "Mr. Roadster" 402-474-4411. First is 550psi, 7"dia and 10.5" long. #910-31650 for $219.00 or the 725psi unit. 8" dia, 11" long # 910-31850 for $245. They also have all the check valves, mounting brackets and fittings. Second is Parr Automotive 1-800-654-6779 or www.parrautomotive.com similiar units as above C3400G @$204.00 or SC-142-C for $279.00 also provide the same accessories.

npca-gary · Post by **npca-gary** » Sat May 12, 2001 12:56 pm

I failed to mention one important thing. Check your engine and see if you can get approx'. 16 inches of vacuum. Engines that do not produce that much vacuum may require the use of a vacuum canister and/or an electric vacuum pump. sorry, Gary