60Patrol

Had a request for spare part for the parking brake so I dug out my collection of parts and was able to assemble on complete one and found an extra part for a fellow Patrol owner. The parking brake was disconnected and missing parts on my project build.



The linkage was bent from being dragged around and several of the clamping parts were missing. By the looks of the crud built up on the parts I am guessing the parking brake has not worked for several decades. I think the last time the truck was driven was possibly the late 80's or early 90's.



my original brake is the on e on the left



From a couple parts trucks I had 3 additional parking brake assemblies all in various states of incompleteness and past abuse. But I was able to clean up mine and rob a few parts from another to complete my parking brake and the extra spring is on its way to a new home.

In doing some prep and cleaning of hardware for bellhouse and engine mounts I took a moment to size up my clutch situation. I still need to remove the clutch from the 63 parts truck, just incase it is in perfect condition. Doubtful but wouldn't it be great if it did.i have read that the clutch disk and pressure plate are both out of production, I did some lite web searching and came up dry. I have also read that the 11 disc from a 1939-64 Ford truck also has a 10 spline with 1-3/8 shaft size can be used. But I will probably just take them to the local clutch shop and have them redone. But I did go ahead and swap out the throw out bearing with a NOS part I recently picked up.

I got the Ford clutch disk but haven’t done a dry fit. But it is so inexpensive that’s worth the try.

The Ford clutch disk DOES work... When I tore down my Red 65 Patrol for parts, that's what it had in it....

the only visible difference is that the snout on the center hub is a little wider than the nissan disk, but it causes no clearance issues with either the flywheel or the pressure plate.

I got the engine from the 1963 parts truck fully disassembled this weekend. Piston No 6 was seized in place and the wrist pin was also seized adding to the difficulty. Took rod caps off and got most of the pistons out of the way except for No 6. But fortunately it was stuck in a position that allowed the crank to spin a little each way which allowed me to remove the other 4 pressure plate bolts. I was mainly after the pressure plate and clutch disc to see which of the three would be best candidate for rebuild. The 1963 and 1965 pressure plates both have red springs in them. The adjusters on the 1963 were run all the way out to the end for some reason.




The pressure plate from my truck has blue springs in it. The heads of the adjuster bolts were all ground flat from the release bearing. One of the adjusters looks to have been replaced in the past as it is a little different from all the others. I also notice some shims under the pivot for the release finger.



When I removed my trans and clutch I found 1 washer between the pressure plate and the flywheel. I guess the release bearing was not getting enough throw so they moved the pressure plate back towards the release bearing. This might have been necessary since the heads were ground off on the release finger adjuster bolts... or maybe it caused them to grind down?? My truck has been apart since the late 80's or early 90's. When I pulled the skid plate and the trans it was apparent that no one had been in there for several years or many miles. There was years of crap built up in the skid plate and where most other bolts on the truck came out okay a couple on the skid plate broke. I guess if it did have some clutch work done in the past it must have been early on in its hard life.




Then I moved on to rocker arm assemblies. I was originally missing the head on my truck but most of the parts taken off were dumped in the back of the truck. I picked up the 1965 parts truck for the engine which turned out to be a 1967 engine, but was able to reuse my original block and crank. But that first parts truck also came with a few extra heads... so now I have several parts to choose from. Two of the assemblies were pretty rough, and were nearly impossible to get apart, which left me 4 candidates.



I disassembled the others one at a time and found that they all had some similar gouges on the rocker arm shaft. I think the one I will be using is the one that came on the head from the 1965 parts truck, it seemed to have less gouging and feels good. That is also the head I am using. Here are couple pics of some of the gouges I found.

Excellent pictures and comments. Looks like you have a good plan for the rebuild.

rdarnell wrote: When I removed my trans and clutch I found 1 washer between the pressure plate and the flywheel. I guess the release bearing was not getting enough throw so they moved the pressure plate back towards the release bearing. This might have been necessary since the heads were ground off on the release finger adjuster bolts... or maybe it caused them to grind down??...

My only guess in this case is a poorly done clutch disk rebuild. It happened to me once, that after a rebuild the clutch was not disengaging from the flywheel completely. I started tweaking the 3 adjuster bolts with not much luck. After some 5,000 miles I decided to change and install an original clutch disk. But by that time the synchronizer rings were damaged. In my case the rebuilt clutch disk had the proper thickness once compressed, but in a free condition was almost 1/16" thicker than a good disk, so it was always rubbing and keeping the transmission turning, thus causing the damage on the synchro rings because they were trying to brake the components more than needed when shifting.

I'm sure that the transmission that corresponds to that clutch will have very worn out synchros as well.

yes it was pretty foul on the inside... looks like they still had the original 1967 gear oil in it that had been run hot and hard.





I had three transmissions and was able to pick the best parts of each... hopefully I had good parts. all new bearing and syncros, but I do not recall the old ones looking too bad.

Got tired of all the stuff in the way in the garage so I went ahead and installed the engine in short block form. I have a short ceiling and with the grill still in it there would not be enough room. I did not put the bell house on for the install, again due to room and height and not being able to tilt the engine.


I got the front engine mounts started and then installed the bell house and the rear engine mounts. All in all it went fairly smooth.

Picked up the rebuilt clutch this morning. I left 2 pressure plates since my original had been rebuild in the past with possibly stronger springs. He went ahead and rebuilt both pressure plates, one at 1000 pounds and the other at 1200 pounds. he also redid the clutch disc with a Kevlar lining just incase I found myself off-road. I am not sure if I will ever be off-road with it and if I am it probably will not be too aggressive. I am wondering if maybe I should have him do another disc in stock form and use the lower strength pressure plate since I will be city street driving. Does anyone know what the original clutch was? I have the manual but it shows the tension at 81kg when the compressed to 39.7mm. if I just simply multiply that number times the number of springs it would come out to 1600 pounds?

I don't know what the actually numbers are but the stock clutch was never a heavy duty clutch. Even with mechanical linkage it took minimal effort to depress the clutch pedal. I think if you use a heavier clutch around town driving will become tedious.