60Patrol

Regarding clutch. I just measured my pedal travel. It moves a little over two inches before it hits the resistance of the clutch springs. At the slave cylinder, with the return spring removed, I have about 1/8 inch free travel of the cylinder rod when moved by hand.
Regarding gauges. Since I know you to be a pilot, I assume you’ve already smacked the gauges. My 64 Datsun pickup requires a daily smack near the fuel gauge to wake it up.
My 68 patrol gauges all read low or empty when unpowered. They creep up to their required positions, but never peg high. Does your fuel gauge work? It is powered by the same regulator as the water temp. (Oil pressure is not)
My water temp gauge IGN connector is the top one.(fed from the regulator)
Mild Bill

moore_rb wrote:Hmmm.... I just checked my 2 spare 68-later water temp gauges, and both are pegged to the low side, not the high side....

Your gauges have flat connectors, right? Not screws?

32 ohms on the gauge seems right. 300+ohms on the sender seems high.

Yes mine has the flat connectors with a metal backing not the phenolic one. I have a new sender that I bought from columbia I think and it read 391 ohms at 71 F and 61 ohms at 175 F

Flaggoni wrote:Regarding clutch. I just measured my pedal travel. It moves a little over two inches before it hits the resistance of the clutch springs. At the slave cylinder, with the return spring removed, I have about 1/8 inch free travel of the cylinder rod when moved by hand.
Regarding gauges. Since I know you to be a pilot, I assume you’ve already smacked the gauges. My 64 Datsun pickup requires a daily smack near the fuel gauge to wake it up.
My 68 patrol gauges all read low or empty when unpowered. They creep up to their required positions, but never peg high. Does your fuel gauge work? It is powered by the same regulator as the water temp. (Oil pressure is not)
My water temp gauge IGN connector is the top one.(fed from the regulator)
Mild Bill

Bill,
Yeah the clutch pedal moves about 2" and there is a little free play at the slave as well.

As for your gauges, I have read that the earlier style ones peg low and then move and the later style, like mine, start high then drop low and the rise following the temp. I haven"t ran the wires for the fuel gauge yet.

Flaggoni wrote: My 68 patrol gauges all read low or empty when unpowered.

Yes, that is my observation as well for the newer style guages...

jwgreen wrote: I have read that the earlier style ones peg low and then move and the later style, like mine, start high then drop low and the rise following the temp. I haven"t ran the wires for the fuel gauge yet.

I think you got it backward. The old style temp gauges (screw connectors on back) peg high at 0 volts, then drop to zero when you power up the truck. The 67-newer style gauges should do the opposite- they should sit at 0 when the truck is off (like my 2 spare gauges do)

Maybe I should send you one of my spares for you to try?

Rob,

I went back and reread your post about your swapping of temp and oil gauges and yes I got my styles mixed up. BUT I can definitely say that my gauges have spade connectors but are both, Oil and Temp, pegged to the high side with no power applied. Mine also do not move at all when power is applied and do not track oil or temp ranges. I looked around and found that I had some spare multigauge clusters. Problem is most of the gauges have broken connectors on the back. But I found one that was showing low with no power. I check the ohms but wasn't getting any reading So now I just don't know what to do. I have the regulator that I modified to be solid state like someone had posted here somewhere but it is for sure putting out 9v. Attached are pics of the gauges that I have on hand that.

One on top is the one I currently have in the cluster with spade connectors and a metal base/back and has fewer components inside.
One on bottom has 1 spade 1 round and has a phenolic base/back. One on left is the one I currently have in the cluster. The other is the spare I have but I don't think it works at all. It also has 2 different type connectors 1 spade and one round, its at the bottom right in the above pic, kinda hard to see.

If you would like to send me one of your spares that I could use to at least test then that may be a great option.

Ok after a little more research and thought I have finally made slight progress. Mild Bill told me to look at the 2 gauges that I have as they can be swapped to either side of the cluster. So I pulled the panel so I could get a good look. Sure enough when I had disassembled several of these clusters to make a nice pretty one I put the temp and oil pressure gauges in on the wrong sides. So swapped them to the proper sides and now, both sit on the low side with no power!!!

Now when I pulled them out I found the one I had in the oil pressure spot had a broken wire to one of the terminals so I very carefully resoldered it to the terminal and ohm checked it. 38 ohms. Now I realize that is a little high according to Rob but I figure it was due to the fact that I had to shorten the wire a bit to reconnect it.

So I hooked everything back up with the power wires on the ING terminals, that I could finally see once I pulled them out and tried my luck.......

Somewhat a sucess.....the oil gauge didn't work still so I swapped out the sender for one I bought out of Columbia and it does read but just really low. Wet gauge reads 55 at idle dash reads red line, but it does move off the bottom to the red line and wiggles just a little when throttle is applied but never gets over the red line.

Temp gauge still nada....doesn't flinch no matter what....not on key....not on rise in temp....nothing this is the gauge that I "fixed" so still could be the gauge.

jwgreen wrote:On another note I need some clutch advise.

So when I depress the clutch about half way it works perfectly. But when I depress it all the way to the floor it sounds like two pieces of metal are hitting each other and the clutch stops working. Is this a adjustment issue with the pedal, slave and master cylinders? Or an issue with how the clutch assembly is adjusted and or do I need a new clutch??

Bill gave me some suggestions but I checked those things out. Does anyone else have any ideas why a clutch would react this way and how to remedy it?

Is this the original clutch, or has it been replaced previously? It makes me think of when faux40 did their engine and clutch, they ended up having to adjust the arms on the pressure plate, or something like that.

RiverPatrol wrote:Is this the original clutch, or has it been replaced previously? It makes me think of when faux40 did their engine and clutch, they ended up having to adjust the arms on the pressure plate, or something like that.

As far as I know its the original clutch, but I made sure to check the measurements as described in the manual after I had the flywheel resurfaced, but maybe I got that wrong!

I had some time today to tinker around with my Patrol in the sauna that is my garage, so I thought I would tackle bending up the stainless steel lines for my front and rear brakes. As I stood there and stared at all the bends and compound curves I thought ...WWJD...(What Would Jesus Do) but then I realized that Jesus was a healer of men and not a heal of Patrols!! So I pondered on it some more and it came to me! WWRMD...(What Would Rob Moore Do).. That thought reminded me of a quote from the great man himself....

moore_rb wrote:That is so cool... You young guys with your CAD-drawings... very impressive.

Of course, not as impressive as us old-guys, who can fab up an entire vehicle, after sketching it out, and doing a couple math problems with a broken crayon on the back of a bar-coaster napkin....

So in the spirit of "old school" I broke out what I figured Rob would use in this case, a Big Chief pad and a Chubby #2 pencil and went to work .........only to remind myself that my drawing and math skills are crap and that it would not be to scale . So I tossed that stuff aside and pondered a little more. I came up with the idea to use some copper wire out of a length of Romex which is nice and flexible to make a template of sorts. I then used that to measure out the exact length I needed and used it to make the basic shape I wanted, then refined it on the Patrol axle itself. Worked like a charm!! The whole time I was thinking, I bet this is how the old timers "Rob" would have done it!!